French Pass Lookout Track

French Pass Lookout Track

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11 Rankers Reviews

11 Face-to-Face

264 Walking

2 Havelock

Maps

Photos

Boat sailing through the treacherous pass

Information

approx 1 km return |15 minutes return

Once you’ve seen the confused frothing waters of ‘Passe de Francais’, you will conclude that only a Frenchman would be crazy enough to sail through.

This track takes you to a viewpoint over historic French Pass, where the tide rushes back and forth like a river, at mid tide whirlpools can be big enough to swallow small boats!

Access

Getting to French Pass is part of the experience here. 800 metres north of Rai valley on SH6, turn into Opouri Road, signposted Okiwi Bay and French Pass. 600 metres on keep left and Okiwi Bay is 23 km. After 39 km the seal ends and French Pass is signposted to the left. After 48 km, just after the cattle stop the fun really starts.

Don’t look left if you have vertigo. The road descends, entering French Pass Scenic Reserve after a cattle stop. 200 metres further on the left is a small parking bay with the signposted start of the track. The road continues a further 1 km to the settlement with shop and DoC campground.

Track

After 3 minutes the track branches. Right continues the narrow zigzag through forest to a lookout over the pass. You can see the swirling waters and beacon. An information panel relives the day D’Urville navigated the channel.

Left is a slightly steeper path to a narrow soft shingle beach.

Geology

The currents swirling through French Pass travel at 5-7 knots. The uneven sea bed and meeting of the Current Basin and Admiralty Bay waters forms eddies and whirlpools. At change in tide this can catch the fish unawares and they float to the surface.

Fauna

From 1888-1912 one of New Zealand’s most famous dolphins, Pelorus Jack, met all vessels who passed by the area at day and night. He was immortalised in a poem by Dennis Glover.

Polynesian History

Once Kupe had finished wrestling his octopus he was tired and weary. He sent his pet pigeon Rupe into the forest in search of sustenance and Te-Kawau-a-Toru, his trusty shag to learn the ways of the sea currents. Te-Kawau-a-Toru plummeted to his death in the frothing waters between Rangitoto Island (D’Urville Island) and the mainland.

European History

D’Urville Island is named after Admiral Dumont d’Urville. In 1825 the French Government promoted him to Commander, giving him charge of La Coquille, later renamed Astrolabe. His mission was to explore the south seas and find out what happened to the ill-fated 1788 voyage of La Perouse. Late in 1826 he sighted New Zealand and in early 1827 he surveyed the French Pass area. On January 24th a tidal rip arose ‘like a seething sheet and water rushed into the basin (Current Basin) and formed whirlpools of incredible violence.’ After successfully navigating the channel it became known as ‘Passe de Francais’, later translated to French Pass.

This was the preferred shipping route from Wellington to Nelson as it obviated the need for rounding D’Urville Island. Navigation of this treacherous channel has always been a bain, so from 1854 a rudimentary signal known as an ‘iron perch’ was erected by Bryon Drury of HMS Pandora. In 1881 this was replaced by a beacon, erected by Marine Department engineer Mr Thomspson and Wallace Webber, a local farmer. This was destroyed around a year later in a collision with SS Grafton. In 1883 a new beacon was set up by Captain Fairchild of SS Stella. This lasted 24 years.

In 1883-4 the New Zealand Marine Department constructed a lighthouse on the mainland. This was officially lit on 1st October 1884. The beacon light continued to be nurtured by Wallace Webber who rowed out at slack tide, cleaned the seagull scats, and refilled the light with oil. Sometimes if the light on the beacon was extinguished, Webber would row across at night. A new beacon was finally installed in 1907, replaced by an automated light in 1927. The lighthouse was automated in 1952.

Stephens Island was named by Cook in 1770. The Maori name was Takapourewa.

A road was approved from Croisilles by the French Pass Road Board in 1953 for a tender of £2,797 by Bryant Brothers of Pelorus Valley. It was completed in July 1957 with a bulldozer driving through the ribbon at the opening ceremony.

Details

Feature Value Info

Location

South IslandMarlboroughHavelock

Categories

  • Walking
  • Free

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Reviews

Rik van der Niet's avatar

Rik van der Niet

Netherlands

Ranking: 9/10

Great views, winding roads, beautiful nature, please drive carefully.

Reviewed over 2 years ago and experienced in November 2016

Marine's avatar

Marine

France

Ranking: 10/10

Just amazing.

Reviewed over 2 years ago and experienced in March 2016

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Anthony's avatar

Anthony

France

Ranking: 10/10

Nice road, cool place to fish and stay one night.

Reviewed over 2 years ago and experienced in March 2016

Jacob Winchester's avatar

Jacob Winchester

United States

Ranking: 9/10

Intensely beautiful sounds studded with cows. A must see for the Marlborough region.

Reviewed about 3 years ago and experienced in February 2016

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Marco

Switzerland

Ranking: 8/10

I went there with a friend and the views were amazing. We enjoyed a day at the beach, I saw a lot of stingrays as well as some sharks. The drive took a while but it was worth it.

Reviewed about 3 years ago and experienced in February 2016

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Lea Kisbye

Denmark

Ranking: 10/10

Long drive on a gravel road, but a very, very beautiful and spectacular drive with views of the sands and mountains.

Reviewed over 3 years ago and experienced in March 2016

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Alice and James's avatar

Alice and James

United Kingdom

Ranking: 8/10

Great walks around local farmland. The drive to get there takes you through the clouds and is astonishing. it is a long way but it is definitely worth it.

Reviewed over 3 years ago and experienced in January 2016

Martin Kolodziej's avatar

Martin Kolodziej

Germany

Ranking: 6/10

Nice view of the Marlborough Sounds, but a bit difficult go go there. But there is nothing there, only the view.

Reviewed over 3 years ago and experienced in February 2016

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Amy Stafford's avatar

Amy Stafford

England

Ranking: 9/10

Stunning views. Highly recommend.

Reviewed over 3 years ago

Jonas's avatar

Jonas

Germany

Ranking: 9/10

If you walk up the hill, there is a beautiful view. The hill is surrounded by water and you can see really far. Amazing!

Reviewed over 3 years ago

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Franziska & Katrin

Germany

Ranking: 10/10

Awesome view!!

Reviewed over 7 years ago and experienced in February 2012

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Nick Morrison

Rankers owner