Scenic Attractions

Beat the Buses

The West Coast's big-ticket scenics - Hokitika Gorge, Pancake Rocks, Lake Matheson - are genuinely stunning, but they're also prime tour bus territory. Getting up at sparrows fart makes a real difference here. I made the mistake of rolling up to Lake Matheson mid-morning once and spent half the walk dodging phones on sticks. The mirror reflection of the Southern Alps is ridiculously good when you earn it early.

The Detours Are the Point

The scenery that sticks with you on the West Coast tends to be the stuff you nearly skipped. Karamea is a long drive north but the Oparara Arch is unlike anything else on the coast - just be aware there's a 2.8m height restriction on the access road, so larger motorhomes are out. Down south, the Haast Pass is worth slowing right down for. Blue Pools gets the crowds, but Roaring Billy Falls and Thunder Creek Falls are just as good and way quieter.

Glaciers Won't Wait

The Franz Josef Glacier isn't what it once was, but the section that still pushes into the rainforest is something genuinely special. Worth seeing while you still can. Same goes for the gorge walks and those insane glacial water colours at Hokitika - if there's been heavy rain, the water turns brown, so a fine-weather window is your friend.